The GPS files for BikeMS New Bern 2010 are now available.  Just click on the Public Service link at the top of the page.  The BikeMS page is listed in the pulldown menu.

The GPS routes are finished, but I’m still tweaking the files for waypoints and other nits. The event looks as spectacular as ever.

Reminder – check back from time to time for updates and additions.  If anything changes, I’ll be changing the files accordingly.  And finally, remember that while these are provided as a courtesy, the routes, cue sheets and directions given out AT THE EVENT are the final word and my files could be different from the official info(see disclaimers elsewhere on this site.)  Changes happen at the last minute due to construction, safety issues, etc. Last minute changes probably won’t make it here.

So, keep an eye on my Public Service pages. The GPS files should be posted in just a few more days!

73,
W4FT

For years, I’ve had an MFJ-434 voice keyer that I wanted to use with my Yaesu FT-1000MP during contests.  Sometimes, it would work fine.  Other times, the combination of the radio and the keyer would do strange things. Often, I would just disconnect the keyer and set it aside – I wasn’t in the mood to troubleshoot during a contest.  Afterwards, once I recovered, I wasn’t really in the mood to troubleshoot the problem.  I spent a lot of time searching the internet for a solution, but never found anything that worked.  In fact, I didn’t find much on the topic at all. Anyways, with Field Day approaching, combined with the relay problem that I had (see http://w4ft.com/2010/06/yaesu-ft-1000mp-transmit-relay-replacement/ )  I decided to spend some time really digging into this one.  The good news:  I found a solution – the correct jumper settings for the MFJ-434 to work with the FT-1000MP!

Strange Behavior

Sometimes, the combination of the MFJ-434 and the Yaesu FT-1000MP would start doing strange things.  The most common “strange behavior” was quite easily duplicated, once I figured out the conditions that caused it.  First of all, I had set all of the jumpers in the 434 using the default Yaesu setup as described in the manual.  This appeared to work, at least initially, but there were two problems.  First, recordings created using the external mic, the Yaesu MD-100 desk microphone, sounded terrible and very weak.  The 434′s internal mic did a much better job.   Unfortunately, this should have been a clue.  The desk mic also sounded terrible and extremely weak on the air too. 

The second problem was much more interesting, even entertaining except when I was trying to make contacts during a contest.  Under certain conditions, the radio would start changing frequency all on its own!   Specifically, if the Notch, NB-1, NB-2 and EDSP buttons were all activated while the 434 was connected and configured with the default Yaesu setup, the radio would start scanning downward when the transmitter was keyed.  It is the same behavior as using the ”Down” scan switch on the mic.  Are you starting to see the problems? For full disclosure, I don’t remember 100%  if I had to key the radio to start this behavior.  I’m also reasonably sure that it did this when I used the Heil headset and boom mic too. These would be easy enough to duplicate and verify. Either way, the EDSP was a no-no when the 434 was hooked up.

So, two serious problems – low mic output and unwanted retuning when I used all the noise supression tools.  Definitely unacceptable.

Two Solutions Are Found

By now, you’ve figured out what I instinctively knew, but didn’t want to accept for a long time.  The default Yaesu jumper setup inside the 434 doesn’t work with the FT-1000MP.  So, with Field Day approaching, I decided to spend an evening diagnosing and researching the problem.  It took a couple hours, but I solved both problems and the system works just as you’d expect.  It just takes a couple undocumented jumper settings.

1. The microphone problem:

One of the microphone pins carries +5 volts to power the microphone.  Unfortunately, the default Yaesu setup suggested in the instructions for the 434 doesn’t pass this through.  There is a setup that puts +5v on the 434′s mic connector, but it doesn’t seem to work as well.  The solution has three steps:
         1. remove the jumper between JMP-3 (Yaesu) pins 15 and 16 (8th pair), and,
         2. install a jumper across JMP-4 (Icom) pins 5 and 6 (3rd pair).
         3. remove the jumper from JMP2.  (When installed, it shorted the +5v directly to ground.)

This routes the +5v signal from the radio through to the same pin on the 434′s microphone connector.  The result is that the MD-100 or any mic that requires the +5v supply will now work approximately as expected.  It may not be perfect, but it works. I say this because mic audio quality might be slightly degraded.  You may find that recording messages with the 434′s internal mic may still be the best, but now you can effectively use your mic while attached to the Voice Keyer without a serious dop in audio levels.

2. The Scan Down problem:

  Okay, I confess, I have no idea exactly what was causing this or why.  Pin 3 carries the ”Scan Down” signal and is a straight passthrough, according to the schematic.  Logically, it should not be a problem. I do know that once I sat down and traced the connections through the schematic of the 434 and made sure that each pin had exactly the right connections or passthrough, the problem disappeared.  If I were to guess, I’d say it had to do with the ground signals, but that’s just a wild guess.  I really haven’t figured it out yet.  I just know that my final setup (below) solves both problems.

MFJ 434 Jumper Setup for a Yaesu FT-1000MP

So here is the complete setup.  Note that for jumpers JMP-3, -4 and -5, the pins are numbered fron left to right and top to bottom, starting at the back of the unit and working towards the front.

1. JMP-1: Leave this jumper set.  It enables PTT Automatic Override (See manual, pg. 6)
2. JMP-2: Remove jumper.  When set between “Y” pin and center pin (default), it shorts the radio +5v line to ground.
3. JMP-3: There are 8 pairs of pins.  Set the jumpers on all pairs(default), EXCEPT remove the jumpers on pair 2 (pins 3 & 4) and 8 (pins 15 and 16).
4. JMP-4: Set a jumper on ONLY pair 2 (pins 3 & 4).  This enables +5v for the mic connector to power an external mic.
5. JMP-5: Set a jumper on ONLY pair 3 (pins 5 & 6).  This enables the pin 5 ground from the radio to the mic.
6. JMP-6: Leave the zero volt setting in place (default). The radio is providing the voltage.  
7. HD-1: Leave default jumper between pins 7 and 8 (default).

Using these settings enables the desk mic to function correctly and eliminates the downscan problem.  It also works with my Heil ProSet Plus.  If you’re using a different microphone, or some other combination of hardware, your best bet is to examine the schematics of all the equipment involved and trace it all out. 

Finally, note that this is for the MFJ-434 and the Yaesu FT-1000MP.  It may or may not work with the MFJ-434-B or the Yaesu Mark-V, or any other subsequent models, but this discussion should give you a lot of ideas on where to look!  Good luck!  If you try this, or try it on another combination of hardware, leave a comment here so that we can share the knowledge. Let’s share what works, what doesn’t and why!

73,
W4FT

Failed RL6016 transmit relay - the black component at the top edge.

What do you do when your Yaesu FT-1000MP, your main base HF rig, that’s been a trusted partner for over a decade,  just doesn’t want to transmit?  As if antenna problems weren’t enough, now I have to perform surgery on my old friend.  Fortunately, this is a story with a happy ending.

For a while now, I’ve been experiencing some difficulty tuning my Yaesu FT-1000MP.  I’ve been trying to figure out how to resolve this problem, but was still able to operate reasonably well, so I carried on.  Anyways, on certain band segments, the internal tuner would hunt around for a long time but wouldn’t be able to tune the antenna for the frequency.  Sometimes, tuning up or down the band, letting the tuner lock in and then coming back would work, but it was annoying.  Recently, that changed completely. The radio would no longer tune at all.  Instead, it would just show an infinite SWR and the protection circuit would cut output power to milliwatts, as designed.  This is what happened when the radio was tuned to the antenna resonant frequencies, so it isn’t a mismatch issue.  (Yes, I know that most internal tuners only function if the SWR is 3:1 or less.)

Time to do some troubleshooting.  With the assistance of Alan, AB4OZ, we opened the radio up and started checking signal paths and function.  To make a long story short, we found a relay that had failed.  RL-6016 on the LPF board was getting a trigger signal, but simply wasn’t functioning.  The radio has been in service for about 12 years, and this is really the first major issue that it has exhibited.  (The only other repair that I have had to make was to resolder the center connection between one of the antenna SO-239 connectors and the board to which it was attached.) 

We also traced the signal path on the schematics from the PA through the LPF board and out to the SO-239.  As an additional diagnostic, we identified an internal coax connection downstream of the PA and the SWR coil, but before the relay in question, disconnected it and attached it directly to a dummy load. (If I can remember which one, I’ll edit it in later.) Once we did this, the radio would key up normally, the power levels would go to expected values, and the internal SWR meter would show expected measurements, near 1:1 for a dummy load.  We also verified that the trigger voltage was normal going in to the relay, and verified that the relay was actually not engaging.  That’s relay RL6016 – the black one in the picture.

OK, so the (hopefully, only) problem has been identified.  I called Yaesu on Tuesday, after the holiday, and spoke with some very friendly people in both the parts and tech support groups. I got the impression that this is a fairly common problem. I explained the symptoms to the tech support rep and they very quickly told me that my diagnosis is probably dead on.  These relays do wear out over time and a simple replacement usually resolves the issue. Parts followed suit by dropping a relay in the mail the same day.  I had the relay in hand via USPS First Class Mail on Friday afternoon.  Total cost, about $15.   Thanks for the quick answers and the fast delivery.

What I haven’t mentioned is the nitty-gritty of getting into the beast in order to diagnose and replace anything.  Opening the cover is the easy part.  Knowing what to do next is not for the novice.  At first glance, it is intimidating.  This radio is fairly tightly designed and assembled.  However, Yaesu appears to have used a modular approach.   There are numerous boards, interconnected with cables and connectors, and well shielded. A roadmap here helps immensely.  In other words, if you’re going to open this radio up to do anything, it is best to have a copy of the service manual, if for nothing else, to have the disassembly instructions!

For my project, it was fairly straightforward. First caution:  pay attention to the locations and positions of all cables, cable ties, copper ground fingers, etc.  Now, if you’re ready to start, remove the cover, remove the six screws holding the big heat sink and the fan from the left side of the radio, flip that over, remove the main shield (one screw in the center), and expose the board with the bad relay.  In the photo at left, the board in question is on the left. 

Here is the newly replaced relay.

Here are photos of the LPF unit, after it has been repaired. Relay RL6016 is the large black lump at the right end of the board. 

In the trace side photo below, the relay is located just to the left of the two copper grounding fingers at the center.  Note the four pins in a square and the three pins located to their left in the red box.  These had to be desoldered to remove the old relay and to install the new one.

Note the 7 solder points inside the red box - 3 on the left and 4 on the right.

 Of course, removing that board was a little more complicated.  All of the connecting wire harnesses appeared to be permanently attached to this board and had to be disconnected at the other ends.  Add about 5 mini push-in coax connections on the board too.  My advice here is to be very careful and patient, and mark every connector with the connector number on the board where it attaches. (Ex:  J6006, J6015, etc.)  It will make it easier.  Fortunately, almost every connector is unique in number of wires or color code.

Remove the speaker and then the frame below. (See text.)

To disconnect everything, you’ll need to start by removing the speaker, held in place with 4 screws. Don’t lose the bushings around the screws.  Lift it up and set it aside.  Next, remove the screws holding the frame that supports the SO-239 antenna connectors and the board to which they are attached. Note the positions of the grounding fingers.  Slide the board slightly towards the front of the radio and rock the frame upward toward the center of the radio to get it out.  Expect to have to cut some of the zip ties holding the cabling in bundles.  Yaesu left enough wire and cable that you can get room to work.  The automatic tuner is on the underside of this frame.

The tuner (large heat sink) is next to come out. The board with the relay is on the underside.

You’ll have about three wire harnesses on this frame to disconnect.  Two go to one of the boards on the top and the third goes to the auto-tuner. label them as you disconnect.  You’ll be glad you did later.  For the two on top, it’s easier to remove the three screws holding the pc board to the frame first.  It gives you room to work around all the other wire bundles. 

Once everything is disconnected, replacing the relay is pretty basic.  The board looks like it is a single layer board and not too densely packed.  Use good desoldering technique on the relay, be careful to use low soldering heat – don’t burn the board or the traces, and swap out the relay.  It’s the big black one on the end.  Be careful not to damage the two copper grounding fingers on the bottom of the board.  Many thanks to Alan, AB4OZ.  He did a masterful job of swapping out the relay – so good in fact, that I couldn’t tell that anything had been changed on the board!  Of course, he does that kind of thing every day.  I suppose I could have done it myself, but it wouldn’t have been as clean on a good day.  And have you ever tried to focus on desoldering electrical components from a PC board with a massive headcold where you can’t focus on the aspirin bottle in front of your face???

Back to work – time to put everything back together. Just reverse the process and put everything back.    Yes, I know, easier said than done.  Actually, it is fairly easy.  It’s tedious to do all this, but it is fairly easy, if you’re just careful and patient.  Be sure to pay attention to placement of copper grounding fingers, cable paths, etc.  Long ago, I learned the difference between “difficult” and “tedious.”   The former is a challenge of knowledge and skills; the latter is a challenge of patience. Another plus – no alignment process necessary. Once I finished the reassembly, everything worked perfectly!

For this job, it looks like Yaesu made it something that a reasonably skilled ham can accomplish. The board is fairly easy to get to and appears to be a single layer, the traces aren’t too small, and as long as you’re patient, you might even be able to just unmount and flip the board over to do the work.  On the other hand, if the auto-tuner module has problems, I’m not so sure. It’ very tightly assembled, and I couldn’t figure out how to disassemble that one, but I didn’t try very hard.  Guess I got lucky there.

So, the FT-1000MP is back in one piece and working as well as it did a decade ago!  Looks like it’ll be ready for Field Day!

Now, if I can just figure out where that leftover copper ground finger goes….. 

73,
W4FT

If you have any questions or comments, leave them below…..

These tips will help you in getting your small to mid-size generators ready for Field Day.  If you’re running a large generator, the kind that comes on a trailer, some of this may bot apply.  They will have additional needs anyways.  The point is that now is the time to pull the generator out and get it ready.

Generators have been both a boon and a bane to hams on Field Day.  Most hams with Field Day memories will have at least one horror story. Last year, we had one station plagued by generator problems – a dirty fuel filter, a cracked and soaked float, no parts stores open, and bad advice on how to fix it from too many people that think they know far more than they really do.  If that wasn’t enough, my generator was having problems with the spark plug fouling.  It would run once it was started, but over time, it was getting harder and harder to start.  By Sunday afternoon, it wouldn’t restart at all!  So, this is about getting the generator ready for the long Field Day weekend, having certain supplies ready, and post-FD steps to put it away. Friday afternoon on the day before Field Day is not the time to be fixing a broken generator.  People panic, they can’t think clearly and make mistakes.  Conditions go from bad to worse. Preparation will eliminate, or at least minimize, any last minute frenzies to fix the generator and may preempt a few panic attacks! 

Preparation, Preparation, Preparation!

With less than 8 weeks left before Field Day, it’s time to drag that generator out of storage and get to work! Here are several points to address:

1. Clean the generator.
   That’s right, give it a bath.  get rid of the layer of dust, the spiders and webs, the mouse droppings from storing it in the back of the shed, the splashed up mud from last year.  In other words, get it cleaned up enough to handle.
2. Drain the old fuel and add new, fresh fuel!
   This has probably caused more problems with small engines than anything else. If the generator has been setting around for months, drain and replace the fuel before attempting to start the engine. The fuel may be fine, but more likely, it is degraded and can gum up the works.  It’s best to start with fresh fuel in the entire system.  But do the next few steps first.
3. Change the oil and filters.
   Much like the fuel, old and dirty oil is bad for a generator engine.  While not as immediate, the effects can be more catastrophic and permanent. Air filters need to be cleaned or replaced as needed.  Many generators will have a washable foam filter.  Take it out and clean it. Your manual may also tell you to add a small amount of machine oil to the filter. If it’s not a permanent filter, or if it’s damaged, replace it.  Finally, if there is one, the fuel filter should be changed out per manufacturer’s recommendations.  At minimum, take it off and backflush the filter screen.
4. Replace the spark plugs.
   Old plugs, especially dirty and fouled ones, will make engine starting harder. Swap the plug out with a new one and put a spare or two in the toolbox. It’s not uncommon for a plug to foul after running for several hours, especially with low quality fuel – something I experienced last year.  A fresh spark plug may be the difference between getting a generator restarted after refueling or fighting a losing battle and missing contacts because the generator won’t start.
5. Start the generator motor.
   Start it up and let it run up to operating temperature.  Shut it down for a minute or two and restart it. Make sure it starts and restarts easily.  Now that it’s running, you’re not done….
6. TEST the generator!
   Depending on the generator, it may have only one or two 110 v. outlets, or it may have both 110 v. and 220 v. outputs on multiple circuits.  Check the voltage level on every outlet.  Next, attach loads to simulate the Field Day loads and make sure that the generator can support them. There’s nothing worse than finding that the generator motor runs but it can’t support the load, or worse, there’s no output at all!
7. Shut the generator down and prep it for FD.
   Don’t simply shut the gen down.  Close the fuel valve and let the generator run out any fuel remaining in the carbeuretor.
8. Clean the fuel cans and get fresh fuel as close to FD as possible.
   Empty out and clean those fuel cans.  If the fuel is old, use it elsewhere or dispose of it properly.  Wait until FD is a week or so away and then fill the fuel cans.  Don’t forget, they change fuel formulation based on the seasons and weather.  Don’t use winter fuel in the middle of summer!
9. Create a shelter for the generator.
   Is there any chance of rain?  How about bright sunlight beating down mercilessly?  Build some form of shelter for the generator.  I suggest something fairly low, opaque, easily anchored to the ground or weighted.  The goal is to protect the running generator from sunlight and rain.  Open sides are good, to allow for ventilation.  You might want to add sound deadening on one or two sides – maybe a foam panel.

Optional Modifications

While there’s time, you may want to consider some modifications.

• Is there a fuel filter and a shutoff valve?
  If not, now would be a good time to install them.  You can get the parts at most local hardware stores, Lowe’s or Home Depot, or any small engine repair facility.  All it takes is a few inches of hose, a valve, a filter, and some clamps.  Just make sure you know what you’re doing, or know someone that does.
• Add a drain tap.
  Make it easy to drain fuel from the tank with a seperate drain valve.  This could be installed at the same time as a filter and a shutoff valve.  Alternately, you can disconnect the fuel line before the filter to drain any fuel.  If you do add a drain valve, make sure you also have a way to cap the drain hose, just in case the valve vibrates open.
• Add a muffler.
  Many larger generators, say 3kw and up, make a fair amount of noise. This can be an important issue at certain Field Day sites.  It may be possible to add a larger, secondary muffler to quiet the noise from the generator, simply by adding it to the end of the exhaust.
• External Fuel Tank.
  For Field Day, this could be a big plus! How would it be to not have to shut down the generator at all during the entire weekend?  With an external fuel tank, say 20 gallons, it may be possible to fuel the generator continuously.  The size of the tank is dependant on your generator, but I have found that my 5500 watt unit runs about 8 to 12 hours on 5 gallons of fuel, depending on the load.  A 20 gallon fuel tank would probably run it for the entire field day weekend. 

  However, this can be tricky.  It isn’t as simple as running a hose from the tank to the generator.  Too much fuel pressure will overpower the carbeuretor.  Too little and you get fuel starvation.  Consider a fuel pump and pressure regulator.  When designing the system, also consider the changes in pressure when the fuel tank is elevated or below the carbeuretor.  It’s a little more complicated than the other changes, but can be accomplished.  The parts can be found, again, at hardware stores.  Fuel tanks can also be found at auto parts stores (Pep Boys, Western Auto, CarQuest, etc.), boating supply stores, maybe RV stores, etc.  Don’t forget to build a platform for all these extras so that the fuel tank can be placed at a short distance from the generator (say about 10 feet).  Maybe even put the platform on wheels or a hand truck.

Pack it up.

Now that the generator prep is done, pack up all the stuff you need.  Here’s my short list:

• Spare Parts:  spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, hose clamps.
• Tools: make sure you have all the tools needed to affect repairs, including carburetor cleaner and a spark plug socket wrench.
• Starting Fluid – do I need to explain this?
• Fire Extinguisher(s) — absolutely a necessity!  Make sure it is fully charged. Just check the gage. 
  DON’T TEST IT!  Once activated, they need to be serviced or replaced.
• Ground Rod and wire.  A ground rod that can be driven into the ground and removed later, along with ground wire to attach to the generator and station.
• Extension Cords of sufficient size.  Get them out and check them for fraying, exposed wires, chafing, etc.  Make sure they are of a large enough gage to support the load for the length needed.  (Remember, multiple extension cords in series with a 14 gage wire won’t support a lot of current.)
• Flash Lights – ever try to refuel in the dark? 
• Funnel – if needed to refuel.
• Fuel cans – clean and fill them close to field day.
• Generator shelter – discussed earlier.

During Field Day…

If you did the prep work well, FD should go smoothly.  Tips for setup….

• Locate the Generator a safe distance from the operating station.  Just in case of fire, you don’t want to be next to it.
• Consider the environment – noise generation and noise blocking, exhaust, etc.  Is one place better than another?
• Do NOT put the fire extinguisher immediately next to the generator. Put it at a safe distance away. It doesn’t help if the extinguisher is *in* the fire.
• Fuel – don’t store it immediately adjacent to the generator.  Probably not good to store it with the fire extinguisher either.
• Position the generator away from fire hazards.  Don’t set it on dry grass.  Consider setting it on a sheet of plywood, a steel sheet, etc.  An open dirt or gravel area are acceptable too.
• Remember to plant the ground rod.

After Field Day…

Field Day is over, and hopefully, you’ve had a chance to rest and recover.  Now is the time to clean up.  Here’s the short list. 

• Clean all of the equipment. 
• Restart the generator.  Make sure it still works well.  If necessary, follow the prep steps above.  Get the generator in good working order before putting it in storage.
• Drain *all* the fuel. This is probably the single most important item.
  Run the carburetor empty. Drain the tank.  Make sure there is no fuel left in the system anywhere that will turn to varnish over time.
  Some people suggest simply adding fuel stabilizer.  This is a band-aid.  Better to remove the fuel and any potential problems.
• Check the cords for fraying, wear, etc.
• Pack everything away in such a way that it can be readily available in an emergency.
• Use all of the remaining fuel up in your lawn mower, car, or wherever else it can go.

Hopefully, given all these tips, you’ll have a good experience with your generator on Fueld Day. 

Got any more suggestions?  Leave a comment!

73,
W4FT

W4FT at the W4DW 2008 Field Day 80m/15m SSB station

It’s that time again! Field Day 2010 is a mere 8 weeks away. Or as one of our local hams calls it, that High and Holy Day of Field! Around here, the local big gun is the Raleigh Amateur Radio Society. 

So what does all this mean? Simply that it’s time tostart working on getting everything ready. There are other web sites that will detail a broad range of preparations and I urge you to google them and get ideas.  My plan is to do a series of posts on different preparation topics. I don’t claim to be an expert, but they should get you thinking! 

Since becomming a ham, I have been participating in the RARS effort in some form almost every year.  RARS has consistently hosted an outstanding Field Day operation, usually placing in the top three in class 7A or 8A, depending on the year. One year, we even made it to 8th place overall!   Last year, we once again took the top honors in 7-Alpha. While being highly competitive, we also strive to be a very friendly environment for new hams to get their feet wet in contesting and at Field Day.  With 7+ stations and a little planning, it’s not that hard to satisfy all of these goals.

For the last couple of years, I’ve been the band captain for the 80 meter/15 meter phone station.  Since I like my creature comforts, I’ve been setting up my trailer as a portable radio station. A bit dark, but much cooler with the air conditioner (in the photo background) when the weather is over 100 degrees during the day and 80s at night.  I try to run a station where new ops can get the feel for contesting and where we can also run a strong contest effort with experienced ops through the night.  Did I mention that the trailer keeps the chiggers and spiders out? 
Some of the topics that I’m considering are:

• Generators – what to do before, during and after field day.
• Radios, Computers and logging software.
• Antennas
• Coax, feed lines, rotor cable and such.
• Tuners and accessories
• The Field Day “Ham Cave”
• All the other stuff.

OK, it’s not an all-inclusive list, but it should get the ball rolling.  Please feel free to post other ideas and input.  Let’s see who has that bright idea.
73,
W4FT

After last Saturday’s RARSFest, we all went home exhausted and stayed that way all day Sunday.  One of my fellow RARS members shared the following. On Sunday night, he was resting on the couch, still recovering, when he heard a quiet rustling noise.

When he went to his kitchen to investigate, he caught a glimpse of a mouse dashing around the corner.  He put out a plastic humane mouse trap box, and in short order, he caught the culprit, which was released in the field outside. 

Shortly after coming back from that release, he heard the rustling noise again!  And again, he put the mouse trap out and captured another mouse!  No, it wasn’t the same little critter!   So he released this one outside shortly afterwards.

But where did they come from?  Later that evening, after recovering some energy, he started checking out his haul from the hamfest which he had left next to the back door in the kitchen.  This included a mini-rack with a computer backplane and a power supply.  When he dismantled the rack to get the power supply, he found that it had some unexpected contents — mouse droppings!   That was his “a-ha” moment.

Moral of the story – when you take stuff to a hamfest, please be sure to leave the mice at home! 

Isn’t there an old saying that there’s no such thing as “just two mice”? 

73,
W4FT

Over a decade ago, when I was first licensed, there was an active effort by the local club and its members to educate and enlighten new hams on good amateur operation and etiquette.  They have my thanks for helping me quickly gain the skills to be a good operator, by both their example and education.  Lately though, it seems like the pendulum has shifted. Fewer operators and clubs are actively passing these skills along.  New operators are learning more by example and less by education.  Adding to the problem, experienced operators are picking up bad habits and passing them along by example.  The experienced ops, myself included, can always benefit from refresher education.  Over years, bad habits, like the fastest microphone in the land, become embedded as accepted practice.  Can’t we start teaching our fellow hams the best practices again?  Or reteaching our fellow hams, as is often the case?  And if we’re on the receiving end of some of this re-education, can we accept it at face value and consider changing our practices instead of feeling upset?

So this is about good operating practices, and in particular, about leaving more than milliseconds before keying the mic. Yes, leave more than a half-second of dead air.  Give someone a chance to insert their callsign in the conversation.  Someone might have something interesting to add to the discussion.  More importantly, there may be an emergency and someome needs to break in.  Give them enough time to do so! 

During net check-in, this gets really stupid.  As soon as the net control op calls for check-ins and unkeys his mic, Joe Lightning will key up and chime in, even before the repeater has a chance to drop.  It’s a race to be the first to check in to the net.  A little irritating, but easily tolerated.  The fun begins when Joe’s cousins all try to check in at the same time. The result is usually a double, but it’s really fun when you get a triple or more. Why?  Just slow down a little and avoid the collisions!  Let the repeater drop.  Wait a moment or two before keying up. It’s a simple thing, but it makes for a much more pleasant and orderly experience for everyone.

Oh yeah, contesting – that’s a different flavor of the story.  Sometimes you have to be fast, but even here, being a little slower than everyone else can mean success!  While Joe Lightning and 200 other hams throw out their calls just as soon as someone calls QRZ, the station that is the object of the pileup may not hear any of them in the cacophony.  However, the hams that wait a second or two may well be heard instantly after the insane pileup clears a little. So again, fastest isn’t necessarily best, even in contests.

For clubs and net control ops, when was the last time you did a training session or presentation on good ‘netiquette’?  Or even a few seconds during a net or a meeting to pass along a simple good operating tip?  C’mon gang, we can all do better!

OK, the ham radio world isn’t going to h*(( in a handbasket, it’s just one of several ways that we are slowly, gradually, losing our skills and our reputation as exceptional communicators. To steal from Dennis Miller, That’s just my opinion, I could be wrong, but I don’t think so.  

Feel different?  Something to add?   Leave a comment.

73,
W4FT

Hope you find something you like. 

73,
W4FT