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	<title>W4FT on Amateur Radio &#187; Emergency Preparedness</title>
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		<title>Field Day: Is Your Generator Ready?</title>
		<link>http://w4ft.com/2010/05/field-day-is-your-generator-ready/</link>
		<comments>http://w4ft.com/2010/05/field-day-is-your-generator-ready/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 04 May 2010 18:11:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>w4ft</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Emergency Preparedness]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Field Day]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://w4ft.com/?p=201</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Are you arranging for a generator for your Field Day effort?  Then it&#8217;s time to get to work, to drag them out, test them and make sure they&#8217;re ready for Field Day. These tips will help you in getting your small to mid-size generators ready for Field Day.  If you&#8217;re running a large generator, the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Are you arranging for a generator for your Field Day effort?  Then it&#8217;s time to get to work, to drag them out, test them and make sure they&#8217;re ready for Field Day.</p>
<p>These tips will help you in getting your small to mid-size generators ready for Field Day.  If you&#8217;re running a large generator, the kind that comes on a trailer, some of this may bot apply.  They will have additional needs anyways.  The point is that now is the time to pull the generator out and get it ready.</p>
<p><img title="More..." src="http://w4ft.com/wp-includes/js/tinymce/plugins/wordpress/img/trans.gif" alt="" /><span id="more-201"></span></p>
<p>Generators have been both a boon and a bane to hams on Field Day.  Most hams with Field Day memories will have at least one horror story. Last year, we had one station plagued by generator problems &#8211; a dirty fuel filter, a cracked and soaked float, no parts stores open, and bad advice on how to fix it from too many people that think they know far more than they really do.  If that wasn&#8217;t enough, my generator was having problems with the spark plug fouling.  It would run once it was started, but over time, it was getting harder and harder to start.  By Sunday afternoon, it wouldn&#8217;t restart at all!  So, this is about getting the generator ready for the long Field Day weekend, having certain supplies ready, and post-FD steps to put it away. Friday afternoon on the day before Field Day is not the time to be fixing a broken generator.  People panic, they can&#8217;t think clearly and make mistakes.  Conditions go from bad to worse. Preparation will eliminate, or at least minimize, any last minute frenzies to fix the generator and may preempt a few panic attacks! </p>
<h3>Preparation, Preparation, Preparation!</h3>
<p>With less than 8 weeks left before Field Day, it&#8217;s time to drag that generator out of storage and get to work! Here are several points to address:</p>
<ol>
<li>Clean the generator.<br />
That&#8217;s right, give it a bath.  get rid of the layer of dust, the spiders and webs, the mouse droppings from storing it in the back of the shed, the splashed up mud from last year.  In other words, get it cleaned up enough to handle.</li>
<li>Drain the old fuel and add new, fresh fuel!<br />
This has probably caused more problems with small engines than anything else. If the generator has been setting around for months, drain and replace the fuel <em>before</em> attempting to start the engine. The fuel may be fine, but more likely, it is degraded and can gum up the works.  It&#8217;s best to start with fresh fuel in the entire system.  But do the next few steps first.</li>
<li>Change the oil and filters.<br />
Much like the fuel, old and dirty oil is bad for a generator engine.  While not as immediate, the effects can be more catastrophic and permanent. Air filters need to be cleaned or replaced as needed.  Many generators will have a washable foam filter.  Take it out and clean it. Your manual may also tell you to add a small amount of machine oil to the filter. If it&#8217;s not a permanent filter, or if it&#8217;s damaged, replace it.  Finally, if there is one, the fuel filter should be changed out per manufacturer&#8217;s recommendations.  At minimum, take it off and backflush the filter screen.</li>
<li>Replace the spark plugs.<br />
Old plugs, especially dirty and fouled ones, will make engine starting harder. Swap the plug out with a new one and put a spare or two in the toolbox. It&#8217;s not uncommon for a plug to foul after running for several hours, especially with low quality fuel &#8211; something I experienced last year.  A fresh spark plug may be the difference between getting a generator restarted after refueling or fighting a losing battle and missing contacts because the generator won&#8217;t start.</li>
<li>Start the generator motor.<br />
Start it up and let it run up to operating temperature.  Shut it down for a minute or two and <em>restart it. </em>Make sure it starts and restarts easily.  Now that it&#8217;s running, you&#8217;re not done&#8230;.</li>
<li><em>TEST </em>the generator!<br />
Depending on the generator, it may have only one or two 110 v. outlets, or it may have both 110 v. and 220 v. outputs on multiple circuits.  Check the voltage level on every outlet.  Next, attach loads to simulate the Field Day loads and make sure that the generator can support them. There&#8217;s nothing worse than finding that the generator motor runs but it can&#8217;t support the load, or worse, there&#8217;s no output at all!</li>
<li>Shut the generator down and prep it for FD.<br />
Don&#8217;t simply shut the gen down.  Close the fuel valve and let the generator run out any fuel remaining in the carbeuretor.</li>
<li>Clean the fuel cans and get fresh fuel as close to FD as possible.<br />
Empty out and clean those fuel cans.  If the fuel is old, use it elsewhere or dispose of it properly.  Wait until FD is a week or so away and then fill the fuel cans.  Don&#8217;t forget, they change fuel formulation based on the seasons and weather.  Don&#8217;t use winter fuel in the middle of summer!</li>
<li>Create a shelter for the generator.<br />
Is there any chance of rain?  How about bright sunlight beating down mercilessly?  Build some form of shelter for the generator.  I suggest something fairly low, opaque, easily anchored to the ground or weighted.  The goal is to protect the running generator from sunlight and rain.  Open sides are good, to allow for ventilation.  You might want to add sound deadening on one or two sides &#8211; maybe a foam panel.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Optional Modifications</h3>
<p>While there&#8217;s time, you may want to consider some modifications.</p>
<ul>
<li>Is there a fuel filter and a shutoff valve?<br />
If not, now would be a good time to install them.  You can get the parts at most local hardware stores, Lowe&#8217;s or Home Depot, or any small engine repair facility.  All it takes is a few inches of hose, a valve, a filter, and some clamps.  Just make sure you know what you&#8217;re doing, or know someone that does.</li>
<li>Add a drain tap.<br />
Make it easy to drain fuel from the tank with a seperate drain valve.  This could be installed at the same time as a filter and a shutoff valve.  Alternately, you can disconnect the fuel line before the filter to drain any fuel.  If you do add a drain valve, make sure you also have a way to cap the drain hose, just in case the valve vibrates open.</li>
<li>Add a muffler.<br />
Many larger generators, say 3kw and up, make a fair amount of noise. This can be an important issue at certain Field Day sites.  It may be possible to add a larger, secondary muffler to quiet the noise from the generator, simply by adding it to the end of the exhaust.</li>
<li>External Fuel Tank.<br />
For Field Day, this could be a big plus! How would it be to not have to shut down the generator at all during the entire weekend?  With an external fuel tank, say 20 gallons, it may be possible to fuel the generator continuously.  The size of the tank is dependant on your generator, but I have found that my 5500 watt unit runs about 8 to 12 hours on 5 gallons of fuel, depending on the load.  A 20 gallon fuel tank would probably run it for the entire field day weekend. </p>
<p>However, this can be tricky.  It isn&#8217;t as simple as running a hose from the tank to the generator.  Too much fuel pressure will overpower the carbeuretor.  Too little and you get fuel starvation.  Consider a fuel pump and pressure regulator.  When designing the system, also consider the changes in pressure when the fuel tank is elevated or below the carbeuretor.  It&#8217;s a little more complicated than the other changes, but can be accomplished.  The parts can be found, again, at hardware stores.  Fuel tanks can also be found at auto parts stores (Pep Boys, Western Auto, CarQuest, etc.), boating supply stores, maybe RV stores, etc.  Don&#8217;t forget to build a platform for all these extras so that the fuel tank can be placed at a short distance from the generator (say about 10 feet).  Maybe even put the platform on wheels or a hand truck.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Pack it up.</h3>
<p>Now that the generator prep is done, pack up all the stuff you need.  Here&#8217;s my short list:</p>
<ul>
<li>Spare Parts:  spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, hose clamps.</li>
<li>Tools: make sure you have all the tools needed to affect repairs, including carburetor cleaner and a spark plug socket wrench.</li>
<li>Starting Fluid &#8211; do I need to explain this?</li>
<li>Fire Extinguisher(s) &#8212; absolutely a necessity!  Make sure it is fully charged. Just check the gage. <br />
<strong>DON&#8217;T TEST IT!</strong>  Once activated, they need to be serviced or replaced.</li>
<li>Ground Rod and wire.  A ground rod that can be driven into the ground and removed later, along with ground wire to attach to the generator and station.</li>
<li>Extension Cords of sufficient size.  Get them out and check them for fraying, exposed wires, chafing, etc.  Make sure they are of a large enough gage to support the load for the length needed.  (Remember, multiple extension cords in series with a 14 gage wire won&#8217;t support a lot of current.)</li>
<li>Flash Lights &#8211; ever try to refuel in the dark?  <img src='http://w4ft.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif' alt=';-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </li>
<li>Funnel &#8211; if needed to refuel.</li>
<li>Fuel cans &#8211; clean and fill them close to field day.</li>
<li>Generator shelter &#8211; discussed earlier.</li>
</ul>
<h3>During Field Day&#8230;</h3>
<p>If you did the prep work well, FD should go smoothly.  Tips for setup&#8230;.</p>
<ul>
<li>Locate the Generator a safe distance from the operating station.  Just in case of fire, you don&#8217;t want to be next to it.</li>
<li>Consider the environment &#8211; noise generation and noise blocking, exhaust, etc.  Is one place better than another?</li>
<li>Do NOT put the fire extinguisher immediately next to the generator. Put it at a safe distance away. It doesn&#8217;t help if the extinguisher is *in* the fire.</li>
<li>Fuel &#8211; don&#8217;t store it immediately adjacent to the generator.  Probably not good to store it with the fire extinguisher either.</li>
<li>Position the generator away from fire hazards.  Don&#8217;t set it on dry grass.  Consider setting it on a sheet of plywood, a steel sheet, etc.  An open dirt or gravel area are acceptable too.</li>
<li>Remember to plant the ground rod.</li>
</ul>
<h3>After Field Day&#8230;</h3>
<p>Field Day is over, and hopefully, you&#8217;ve had a chance to rest and recover.  Now is the time to clean up.  Here&#8217;s the short list. </p>
<ul>
<li>Clean all of the equipment. </li>
<li>Restart the generator.  Make sure it still works well.  If necessary, follow the prep steps above.  Get the generator in good working order before putting it in storage.</li>
<li><strong><em>Drain *all* the fuel.</em></strong> This is probably the single most important item.<br />
Run the carburetor empty. Drain the tank.  Make sure there is no fuel left in the system anywhere that will turn to varnish over time.<br />
Some people suggest simply adding fuel stabilizer.  This is a band-aid.  Better to remove the fuel and any potential problems.</li>
<li>Check the cords for fraying, wear, etc.</li>
<li>Pack everything away in such a way that it can be readily available in an emergency.</li>
<li>Use all of the remaining fuel up in your lawn mower, car, or wherever else it can go.</li>
</ul>
<p>Hopefully, given all these tips, you&#8217;ll have a good experience with your generator on Fueld Day. </p>
<p>Got any more suggestions?  Leave a comment!</p>
<p>73,<br />
W4FT</p>
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		<item>
		<title>RARS Exciter Articles &#8211; Field Day, Go Kits, Contest Time and Small Countries</title>
		<link>http://w4ft.com/2009/08/39/</link>
		<comments>http://w4ft.com/2009/08/39/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Aug 2009 19:08:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>w4ft</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Contesting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Emergency Preparedness]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Field Day]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Operating]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Publications]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://w4ft.com/?p=39</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Over the last year, I&#8217;ve had a few articles published in the Raleigh Amateur Radio Society&#8217;s monthyl newsletter, the Exciter.  RARS Field Day 2008 &#8211; The Results Are In &#8211; Dec 2008, as AG4XR A review of the RARS efforts on Field Day over the last decade, the latest results and suggestions for the future. Following mine [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Over the last year, I&#8217;ve had a few articles published in the Raleigh Amateur Radio Society&#8217;s monthyl newsletter, the <em>Exciter</em>. </p>
<ul>
<li><strong>RARS Field Day 2008 &#8211; The Results Are In</strong> &#8211; <a href="http://www.rars.org/exciters/2008/RARSExciter12-2008.pdf" target="_blank">Dec 2008</a>, as AG4XR<br />
A review of the RARS efforts on Field Day over the last decade, the latest results and suggestions for the future. Following mine is an article by Gary Pearce, KN4AQ, with a different view of Field Day.  Both are worth a read for Field Day fans.</li>
<li><strong>Contest Time Off: How Do You Measure It?</strong> &#8212; <a href="http://www.rars.org/exciters/2009/RARSExciter02-2009.pdf" target="_blank">Feb 2009<br />
</a>Some of the contests have rules about how many hours you can operate and about what constitutes <em>off-time, </em>but the rules aren&#8217;t clear on how to handle two windows of non-operating time: the time at the start and at the end.  This article clarifies how they count time in contests.</li>
<li><strong>How Big *Is* RARS? Or, Why Are Some Countries So Hard To Get?</strong> &#8212; <a href="http://www.rars.org/exciters/2009/RARSExciter03-2009.pdf" target="_blank">Mar 2009<br />
</a>Our Section Manager noted that RARS is the largest club in North Carolina.  At about the same time, the IARU added two new entities.  Surprisingly, there are over 100 countries and 33 entities that are smaller than RARS!</li>
<li><strong>How Far Should Your Go-Kit Go?</strong> &#8212; <a href="http://www.rars.org/exciters/2009/RARSExciter06-2009.pdf">Jun 2009</a><br />
Have you thought about what purpose your Go-Kit should serve?  This article is a discussion about setting up a Go-Kit for your specific needs.</li>
</ul>
<p>Any comments?  <img src='http://w4ft.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>73,</p>
<p>Cliff, W4FT</p>
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